2017 Riesling Smaragd "Bergdistel" (Tegernseerhof)
Tegernseerhof, Riesling "Bergdistel" Wachau, Austria 2017100% Riesling RIPE LIME & PINEAPPLE, SUAVE MINERAL, RACY YET RICH Austria’s Wachau, unlike Germany’s Rheingau, cannot claim to be the cradle of Riesling’s (likely medieval) origins, but it certainly can and does offer friendly yet fierce competition as the site of the variety’s absolute zenith. Imposingly steep, terraced vineyards are stony and sun-soaked guaranteeing impressive ripeness (here in one of Austria’s coolest viticultural climates) while gneiss soils further bolster acidity. Most would agree that Smaragd classé like this represent Austria’s crème de la crème, but subjectivity aside, these are the elites of the elite. Wachau and Martin Mittelbach’s Tegernseerhof seems to revel in not only meeting and exceeding expectations but doing so without climbing into the catastrophic price ranges of his colleagues and competitors. Utopie! Serving Suggestion: Smoked trout schnitzel w/ caper-mustard cream sauce & lemony white asparagus w/ marinated artichoke hearts. Szechuan salt & pepper squid & pickled lotus root.